![]() ![]() The device usually has a button to disable the system by closing a. I know this may seem daunting but honestly the issue shouldn’t be difficult to identify. A kill switch is a device installed in a vehicle to stop it from starting until disengaged. If you described exactly what occurs when you turn the key and try to start it I could guide you more accurately as to how someone may have gone about making that condition occur. Pay attention to the ignition switch harness as well as the PGM/Fi relay under the dash…those two areas are essential or rather…very good places to be going to disable a vehicle. You need to remove the cover under the steering column and start looking and it should be rather obvious what was done. When someone installs items like this they usually find it sufficient to stump the type of thieves who are just jumping in and trying to get a vehicle started using conventional methods…those installs almost always do NOT stand up to any investigation under the dash as they weren’t meant to do so. In your vehicle the factory wiring is neat and tidy so you should be able to see what what done and undo it. If you do not know what he did and how he did it you will need to look under the dash because he surely was under there making alterations… I used to install alarms and remote starts and all sorts of trickery in vehicles as a professional. Yes all of the info you have received thus far is valid. Remove it, and re-connect the wire to bypass the kill switch. ![]() The starter kill switch could be wired into the starter under the hood, or the ignition switch at the steering wheel.ĭrill down to whichever component you determine the kill switch is hooked to, and look for a splice that shouldn’t be there. It could also be wired near the main fuel relay, which is under the dash to the left of the steering wheel. The fuel kill switch is probably hooked into the fuel pump which if I remember on those cars is under the back seat. Please use the link below to see the overview of the product. It will disable the bikes starter and not allow someone to come and simply start the bike and take off. The kit is designed for an anti theft device when parking your bike. If it doesn’t even crank, it’s a starter kill switch. This is a hidden kill switch kit designed for KTM/Husky/GasGas bikes. If the car cranks but doesn’t start when you turn the key, it’s a fuel kill switch. The other option is to just bypass the wiring for whatever system the kill switch addresses. So you’ll want to dive behind the center console and look for wiring that shouldn’t be there for clues as to where the kill switch is. The good news is that if it’s slaved to a button, there’s going to be wiring so that the kill switch can detect a button press. And because the user gets to select which button - or buttons - trigger the kill switch, unless he wrote it down you’re either going to have to brute-force it by pushing everything one at a time and trying to start it each time (which gets a lot more impossible the more buttons he used) or you will need to find and remove the kill switch. If it’s really a coded kill switch, it’s usually slaved to one of the buttons in the center console - climate control or radio are the usual suspects. One, and most important, the ignition would cut out and the engine would shut down (possibly in a dangerous driving situation) if something went wrong with any of the switches and/or my wiring while in motion.Ouch. This worked great (several failed attempts were made by thieves to hot-wire the ignition switch when I lived in Oakland and San Francisco during the early-to-mid 1990s), but there were two weaknesses to this rig. I agree with the above post, Unless you leave the keys in the bike a joyrider is not going to start it, a professional thief can bypass the ignition switch easily, or just pick the bike up and throw it in a panel van.Now if you had 4 or even 3 switches that needed to be in certain positions things would get harder. If that does not work, return that switch to the same as the rest and throw the next one to the right and repeat. To confuse clever thieves who might yank out the switch wiring harness (none ever tried), I braided them into a confusing bundle of extra wires that went into a hole in the firewall. Then throw the left one in the other direction and try. So that I wouldn't forget the sequence, I used the up position for each switch to represent a 1 and the down position to represent a zero, then wired the "run" sequence (which sent power to the ignition coil) to be the five-digit binary representation for the decimal value 23 (10111). I used a row of five unlabeled switches (visible on the right side of my handcrafted Impala dash in the above photo) that had to be flipped to the correct up-down sequence in order for the car to start. ![]()
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